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Materials·5 min

Understanding Gsm Brushing Fabric Hand

Two microfiber pillowcase samples can feel identical across a table and behave completely differently after ten washes. The difference is usually in the fibre and the brushing, not in the weight printed on the swatch card.

GSM is a starting point, not a specification

GSM tells you how much fibre is in a square metre. It does not tell you the denier of that fibre, how it was brushed, or how the finish will survive washing. Two fabrics at 90 gsm can differ in hand feel more than a 90 and a 120 gsm pair.

What actually determines the hand

  • Fibre denier. Finer filament gives a smoother, softer surface. Coarser fibre feels fuller and is more durable, but it pills differently.
  • Brushing depth and direction. A light brush raises a short nap that feels smooth. A deep brush gives a plush feel that collapses faster.
  • Finishing. Some finishes are topical and wash out gradually. That is not a defect — it is a specification you should know about before you promise a customer a feel that lasts three years.
  • Construction. A denser weave holds its surface longer at the same gsm.

How to compare samples properly

Wash the sample five times at the temperature on your care label and compare it against an unworn control. Measure the shrinkage and look at the surface under a light at an angle. Ninety percent of fabric disputes we see would have been settled by this test before the order was placed.

Where we sit

Send us the hand feel you are trying to hit and the wash regime your market expects. We will quote the construction that gets there, and we will tell you what the finish will do after repeated washing.

We will not quote a gsm and call it a specification. Ask us for the fibre, the construction and the finishing route in writing.

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